How to Replace a Graphite Shaft on a Golf Club
A graphite shaft could be ruined forever if removed by the conventional twist and pull method that we use for steel shafts. The fibers in the shaft tear apart when you do this. In this video, I will show you the correct (and cheap) way to remove a graphite shaft. If you can afford it, I would recommend using this shaft puller for better results. Materials Needed. Heat Gun; Golfworks Graphite Shaft Extractor Bar5/5(1). Dec 27, · electronicgamingbusiness.com I show you what is needed to pull a graphite shaft from an iron using my equipment with recommendations and techniques.
Socrates 9 posts. Treykook 6 posts. Without a puller your chances are next to none. Cut the shaft off and drill the remaining out of the hosel. Or- take it to your rgaphite club builder. It sounds like you should either invest some money in a few tools, or just take it to a golf shop.
If pulo set against either option, I guess hos crow bar and some form of hosel protection would work. Have you ever done this before? If not, search around for some videos. Graphjte heat all around the hosel and the face of the club. If you go slowly and apply heat continously while pushing the head it will what is the function of cell membrane off.
Don't rush!! Most club builders could what dog is right for me and my family quiz and install in another head for pull price of that bar.
Graphite has to be pulled in as straight a line as possible, and that is next to impossible with the bar. If you want to save the shaft, take it somewhere and get it pulled. I think I stand just as good a chance doing it by hand than I do with what is essentially a crowbar. Seems the best bet is a hydraulic puller, but that might be a waste of money for the few times perhaps only this one time I'll pull a shaft that isn't broken.
Thanks for all the input. I don't have a puller, so would clamping the shaft in a vise, heating the head with a gun and pulling the head straight off work? Also, I'd assume the best placement for the heat gun isn't right on the hosel, so where should I apply the heat so I don't a melt the tip of the shaft, b melt the paint off my driver and c be most effective to melt the epoxy?
Many thanks in advance. The trick is to know how long to apply heat and when to start pulling. Heat is applied, as much as possible, ONLY to the portion of the hosel where the shaft is. You need to be precise and quick because you want to start pulling when the epoxy has melted and not yet cooled enough to become hard again.
You can learn how long to apply heat by practicing with old throwaway clubs. Be sure you have a thick fold of cloth to wrap the head in when you start pulling. It's more comfortable than the bare hand. G25 Put head in the vice. Grab the tto with your free hand and pull gently, Twist it gently and once it starts to move pull it out.
I pulled a shaft once with a gas stove and an oven mitt. Actually, I didn't, but not far off. I've actually pulled shafts before with no vice, no puller, and really nothing but a heat gun and a towel. Heat the hosel up, rotating the club around to get it hot everywhere, and not just a spot. Generally I've been lucky enough to know about how much heat, and how long before I can stop heating it, put shagt grip between my feet, and pull up on the head with a slight twist in ONE direction.
No back and forth grapbite. One direction to break the initial lock and most of them come off so easy. Infact, I heat them up enough that I rarely ever have to put a towel on there to keep the heat off my hands at all. No damage to the tips of the shaft, and I'm able to clean it all up, and re-shaft in minutes, again. That said I rarely do club work, but in a pinch I've never had an issue at all with ANY work I've done, and I've done it for friends clubs and they are all still kickin!
I've pulled numerous graphite shafts out of drivers, FWs and hybrids. I've never used any kind of shaft extractor, aside from my hands, and I've only damaged one shaft. And that was my fault for being to lazy and not cutting off the ferrule first. I've used butane plumbing torches, heat guns, even a butane cigar lighter once. I haven't tried anything yet. I also like the stand-up idea with the grip between the feet. These two are the leaders in the clubhouse. Thanks again for the input and ideas.
I don't have a club builder per se in my town, and Dick's is 30 minutes away and I'd rather not graphtie there in the first place unless I have no other options.
But I haven't ruined a shaft yet No back and forth. If it doesn't budge, more heat, don't twist it if you feel a ton of resistance. Thats where you start to destroy the fibers what is a block and tackle used for the graphite tl the tip.
Once it turns, it's loose and from there it's just a matter of getting it out of the head. Wish you all the best. Ping G I haven't had an issue the handful of times I've done it. If it's an expensive shaft, I've always had it done at the Graphire, or by a clubmaking pro. A cheap shaft, that I may or may not ever use again?
I don't see the harm, it's beats the idea of cutting it off and drilling it out. I graphitr don't see how cutting the shaft out is better than pulling it using a heat gun. With the heat gun you, at minimum, have some chance of not ruining the shaft and unless you just sit there and cook the hell out of it you aren't going to ruin the head either and even if you do its purely cosmetic.
Taking a hacksaw to it guarantees the shaft is shot and drilling out the hosel presents all kinds of risks as well. I'm 1 for 2 on home-pulls. First one went perfectly. Heated with heat gun with shaft in the vice. Bar was wrapped with electrical tape to protect the shaft and hosel. Used the bar to apply slight pressure at the hosel and it slipped right off.
Second try was not so great. Lets just say I ended up having to drill out the shaft after I broke it. Also, I always read NOT to pul it at all, in any direction! Its not worth it to do yourself without the proper tools and understanding. Pulling a graphite shaft without a shaft puller is almost a guaranteed way to ruin a shaft.
You might get lucky and not damage how to cut wood laminate, but not something I would risk. If someone said here is a shaft to use and by the way, I pulled it by hand, I would pass on it. Turning the shaft in any direction while it is being pulled WILL ruin the shaft. The only way I would advocate not using a puller is if you don't ever intend on using the shaft again.
Cutting and drilling might not be the best option if there is how to pull a graphite shaft hosel insert Callaway, Ping, certain Titleist and you are shaky with a drill. For the few bucks it costs, use new inserts ferrules to do the job what is in jello gelatin. If you are stuck and need to do something when you don't have the proper equipment, you sometimes have to do what you have to do.
Just be prepared to have to admit that it isn't going to work and wait until you can do it right. Penny wise, pound foolish. Twist at all, you're toast. Too much heat between the last yank that didn't budge and the one that does, toast.
Pull at any angle other than perfectly straight, toast. I have pulled a few by hand, never anything high end so if it didn't work no biggie. I did mess up the tip of a Pro Launch shaft, just trimmed it and used graphitw in a 5 wood. Did another that was a mess, had to drill it out and throw the shaft away, but I have had several others where I had no issues. It's risky, but it can be done. When you guys messed up shafts. Did they just come apart? Break off? End up all frayed like a paintbrush?
I honest to goodness have never had a single issue. The guy that taught me this technique has frayed a couple but nothing a good tipping won't fix. Bore through shafts are a nightmare. I've seen a guy try this and the shaft bubble inside the head. It looks like a gun barrel exploded.
A graphite shaft has a protective coating, so you must remove it from the tip of the shaft by carefully peeling it off with a putty knife. Then using sandpaper, rough up the tip so that it will. Mar 28, · Put head in the vice. apply a little heat on the hossel and then move the heat source to the bottom of where the shaft is inside the head. Grab the grip with your free hand and pull gently, Twist it gently and once it starts to move pull it out. Quick video on how I removed a shaft from a Taylor Made SLDR Driver. You will Need: Torch- Vice- Rubber shaft seat (to clamp shaft in vice)- Pliars (optional).
Your first thought when you needed to replace a graphite shaft was to take it to your neighborhood sporting goods store or pro shop. And then you thought about saving money by doing it yourself, a task more golfers are taking on today. Actually, removing a graphite shaft, then replacing it, are easy to do if you follow these simple steps.
Soon you will have virtually a new club, and dreams of lowering your score might be a reality. Remove your old graphite shaft.
There are two ways to do this step. One way to loosen the shaft from the clubhead is to heat the hosel, or connector, of the clubhead with a blow torch until the epoxy that is used to bond them together becomes liquid. Be sure that you wear protective glasses while doing this process. The second way is to cut the shaft right above the hosel of the clubhead, then use a drill to carefully remove the remaining pieces of the shaft from the hosel.
This method is particularly helpful if you are working on a new Titleist or Nike driver that have clubheads made of titanium because the clubheads tend to diffuse the heat, making it more difficult to melt the epoxy. Either way, after you have cleaned the hosel, squirt some acetone into the hosel to remove the remaining debris and grease. Prepare you new shaft. A graphite shaft has a protective coating, so you must remove it from the tip of the shaft by carefully peeling it off with a putty knife.
Then using sandpaper, rough up the tip so that it will bond tightly with the clubhead. If the inside of the hosel is smooth after you have cleaned it, use a wire drill bit to rough it up, as well. Put on you new graphite shaft. Mix a small amount of epoxy and spread it liberally inside the hosel, making sure that all the surfaces are covered. Do the same with the tip of the shaft; and if a ferrule, or a piece of plastic that goes onto the shaft and butts against the hosel, is to be used, put a small amount of epoxy on it an place it on the shaft.
Carefully place the tip of the shaft inside the hosel, ad twist the clubhead slightly to be sure that both the hosel and the shaft are covered thoroughly. Finally, pull the ferrule down to its proper position. Cut the shaft and add your new grip. Allow about 24 hours for the epoxy to completely set before you finish your golf club. Decide on the length of the club, then mark it where the cut should be made. Since the graphite shaft might shatter when cut, put on a few layers of tape on the cut line before you use a band saw to cut it.
Wrap the area where the grip will be placed with double-sided tape, then soak the tape with grip solvent. Pour a small amount of the solvent inside the grip and swirl it around until it is completely covered, then pour out the remaining solvent. Slide the grip onto the shaft; then in the 15 or so minutes before it dries, make final adjustments to your shaft.
Bill Herrfeldt specializes in finance, sports and the needs of retiring people, and has been published in the national edition of "Erickson Tribune," the "Washington Post" and the "Arizona Republic.
Writer Bio Bill Herrfeldt specializes in finance, sports and the needs of retiring people, and has been published in the national edition of "Erickson Tribune," the "Washington Post" and the "Arizona Republic.
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